Today, we are preparing the lining and the facing.
If you are using it, sew Velcro to the right side of wearer's LEFT FACING. Center the velcro on the marks transferred from your pattern, I put a dab of a glue stick to hold in place while I sewed. If you are using snaps, wait until later to apply.
Now finish the edge of the facings below the notch (about 2.5" in length). I am using a serger, a zigzag stitch would be fine or a small bit of bias trim would do as well.
Get pieces #14 (FRONT LINING), pin to FRONT FACING (#3) along curved edge with right sides together, matching notches and raw edges. Clip into the seam allowance of the facing as necessary to fit the curves together.
Stitch with a 1/2" seam allowance, END STITCHING AT BOTTOM NOTCH, be sure to backstitch. The lollipop pin is where your stitching should end.
Press seam allowances toward the lining.
Now, we need piece #13 BACK LINING. Fold it in half, right sides together and run a basting stitch 1/2" from the fold.
Open the lining and press the pleat to either side, we will later remove this stitch.
Attach the 2 front lining pieces to the back lining piece. Stitch shoulder seams first.
Then, do side seams. Press seams open.
Next, we will set in the sleeves. Be sure to trim 1" from the hem (this was to be done from the sleeve lining only).
The sleeve lining will be prepared in the same manner as your main fabric sleeve. For pics, refer to our previous day of sewing sleeves HERE.
Sew a row of gathering stitches 3/8" from the raw edge of the cap of one sleeve, starting and stopping at the side notches, be sure to leave thread tails on both ends (for now, ignore center notch on sleeve cap).
Now, sew a second row of gathering stitches 1/4" below the first row (5/8" from the raw edge).
Fold the sleeve in half, right sides together, and pin the sides of the sleeve together. Stitch sides with a 1/2" seam allowance.
Press seams open and fold hem 1/2" to the wrong side, press.
Now, fold and press the bottom edge of lining 1/2" to wrong side.
Hood's up next!