School Days Coat Sew-a-Long, Day 3

We are assembling the front jacket panels of our coat today.

First, we need pieces #1 (JACKET FRONT) and #4 (FRONT YOKE).  

 

 

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Pin FRONT YOKE (#4) to its corresponding FRONT JACKET (#1) with right sides together matching edges (at the top).

 

 

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Stitch the top edges (1/2" seam) and press seams toward shoulder.  I am grading my seams, so after pressing, I trimmed one of the seam allowances.  Edge/topstitch if you desire (I say yes!)

 

 

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Now, get piece piece #2 FRONT PLACKET.

 

 

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If you have not already, you should decide if you want to use snaps or Velcro for your front closure.  I opted for Velcro because I have a toddler and felt it would be easiest for her tiny hands to handle.  If you are using snaps, you will sew them on later, just make sure that you have marked the spots for them.

 

We will apply Velcro's scratchy sides to the wearer's right FRONT PLACKET on the right side of the fabric.

I suggest marking your right (versus left) side of your coat, it will prevent confusion.

 

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Cut 2 squares of Velcro and center the Velcro on your markings from pattern.  The squares are too little to pin effectively and too slippery to stay in place, so I used a little bit of a glue stick to hold it down without moving.  Sew Velcro into place, I stitched around each square two times.

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Gather your tabs (you remember, the ones that took half an episode of Law & Order:SVU to assemble). Pin tabs to the FRONT JACKET piece with right sides together, making sure that bottom edge of each tab matches a placement notch on the jacket front. Tabs with buttonholes should be pinned to the wearer's right FRONT JACKET (**remember, in my photos, I have not sewn buttonholes yet, it is best to have done buttonholes by this point).

Place tabs on each the right and left of your FRONT JACKET pieces.

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In the photo below, the pin is noting where a placement notch is located.

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Stitch tabs to the jacket with a 3/8" seam, you may wish to stitch over the ends several times for reinforcement.

Repeat tab placement and stitching for second side of jacket front.

 

With right sides together, align and pin the FRONT PLACKET to the JACKET FRONT.

 

Tabs are in place on both sides (left and right).

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Stitch with a 1/2" seam allowance.  

Press the seam allowances from the button tabs toward the side seam.  Grade seams.

Edge/topstitch the seam on the PLACKET side, be sure not to catch tabs in your topstitching.

 

 

Edgestitching in place..

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Trim the seam allowances from the placket seam to 1/8" at the neckline to reduce bulk.

 

Neckline before trimming:

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Neckline after trimming, there's a chance that I was using an electric knife or something similar…

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Staystitch the neckline of the front jacket 3/8" from the raw edge, I use a regular stitch length.

 

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Repeat to complete both sides of the front jacket.

It's already beginning to look like a coat!

 

2 thoughts on “School Days Coat Sew-a-Long, Day 3

  1. Great clear photos! It’s such a great pattern, isn’t it? I’ve started researching laminated fabric for number two coat! I’m up and running with you!

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