School Days Coat Sew-a-Long, Day 2

Today, we will assemble the hood & prepare tabs or cording, depending on which view that you are doing.  I am doing VIEW B (with tabs).  



Gather pieces 8 & 9 (main fabric & lining).  

Match notches and edges on CENTER HOOD PANEL (#8) and one of the SIDE HOOD PIECES (#9).  

On the CENTER HOOD PANEL, mark seam allowance with an air-soluble fabric marker/pencil and then clip inside (about 1/4") to allow for a smooth fitting.  (We are marking the seam allowance to make sure that we do not clip too far into seams.)





Pin and sew with a 1/2" seam.  



Clipping is very effective.



Here it is sewn:


Remove pins and press seam allowance toward the center hood.  

Edge-stitch the seam from the right side, if desired.  I am edgestiching the center hood (and everything else).

**Since I am edge/topstitching, instead of using pinking shears, I am grading the seam allowance.  To grade your seams, when your instructions direct you to press seams to one side, trim the enclosed seam allowance to about half the width of the top seam allowance before edge/topstitching.  There is a diagram in the pattern instructions.


Here is my one of my hood seams being graded and ready for edge-stitching.  Notice that I trimmed one of the seams, now, I am ready to press and edge-stitch.



Repeat above steps for the other SIDE HOOD.


The outside of our hood is now complete.




Now, we will do the hood lining.

We are assembling the hood lining in the same manner, but no edge-stitching is to be done.

Press and trim seam allowance. *no picture*

Put main fabric and lining fabric hood pieces right sides together.



Stitch perimeter of hood with a 1/2" seam allowance (leave the lower (neck) edge open.

Trim to approximately 1/4."

Turn hood right side out, press lining *just inside* of the hood so the lining does not show on the right side.

Edgestitch the outer edge of the hood (if desired).

I desire topstitching, here is the hood with the lining rolled just inside of the hood with edgestitching.



Now, baste together the raw edges of the lining and hood at the neck.


Here is the bottom of the hood with basting stitches.



Put aside completed hood for now. We just made a hood!


Now, we will go ahead an make tabs.  

Gather your cut pieces for BUTTON TABS (#6), you should have 12 pieces.  

Fuse a small piece of interfacing to the wrong side of a tab piece at the markings you transferred from the pattern.  

Pin the interfaced tab to a non-interfaced tab right sides facing and stitch both long sides and one short side with a 1/2" seam.

Trim the seams to 1/8" and clip corners (be careful not to clip within seam allowances).

Turn tabs right side out.  I used wool and turning the tabs right side out was the most tedious part, it was so tiny and thick!

Press and edgestitch tab.  Repeat for the remaining 5 tabs.  




Stitch the marked buttonhole onto 3 of the 6 tabs.

*I did not photograph that step because I was not sure what buttons I wanted to use at the time…

Tabs are done, yea!


If I left out something, let me know!


4 thoughts on “School Days Coat Sew-a-Long, Day 2

  1. It does look gorgeous. I’m a frustrated sewer as my three have been really poorly. There’s no way I can sit down at my machine. My bits are cut out and I’m ready to go though. Fingers crossed for tomorrow! Are you doing a Flickr page for this or will you post pics on the O and S page?

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